Soundbar Buying Guide: Which soundbar is right for me?

Buying a soundbar today is easier than ever – and at the same time more confusing. The offerings range from compact bars for under 200 euros to modular systems with subwoofers, rear speakers, and height channels. In between are terms like eARC, virtual Atmos, or 5.1.2, which are rarely explained.

The reason for purchasing is usually the same: the new TV delivers an excellent picture, but the sound falls short. This is not manufacturer negligence, but simply physics – there's no room for decent speakers in a two-centimeter flat casing.

This guide deliberately refrains from naming specific models. Instead, we clarify the questions that precede model selection: What types are there? When is a subwoofer worthwhile? What distinguishes real from virtual Atmos? And which connection is right for your TV?

By the end, you'll know which type of soundbar suits your room, your TV, and your listening habits. Once that's settled, choosing the specific device becomes a minor detail.

Table of Contents

1. What a Soundbar Can Do – and Where Its Limits Lie
2. The Three Types: One-Body, Bar plus Subwoofer, Modular System
3. Audio Specialist or TV Manufacturer?
4. Connections: HDMI, ARC, eARC, and Optical
5. Understanding Surround and Dolby Atmos
6. Do I Need a Subwoofer?
7. Listening to Music Through a Soundbar
8. Size, Placement, and Aesthetics
9. The Details You Only Notice Later
10. Common Mistakes When Buying a Soundbar
11. Decision Aid: The Path Through Exclusion Criteria
12. FAQ

1. What a Soundbar Can Do – and Where Its Limits Lie

A soundbar is always a compromise between effort and result. This is not a criticism, but its very purpose: one enclosure, one cable, minimal footprint – and yet significantly better sound.

However, the extent of this compromise is crucial. And soundbars differ more dramatically in this regard than many expect:

• There are bars that are so well-tuned for music that they come astonishingly close to a classic stereo system – with a neatly layered soundstage and genuine tonality instead of broad effect sound.
• There are systems with true rear speakers, a separate subwoofer, and additional height channels. They don't simulate surround; they create it – here, the helicopter genuinely comes from behind and truly from above.
• And there are compact bars that do exactly what they're intended to do: noticeably improve TV sound without claiming to replace a cinema.

Where a soundbar setup truly has limitations compared to a full-blown system is rather: maximum sound pressure level in very large rooms, the free placement of speakers in the room, and the ability to swap and upgrade each component individually.

The core message: It's not "soundbar means sacrifice," but "the expectation must match the chosen type." If you buy a small one-body bar and expect true surround, you will be disappointed. If you build a modular system with rears and a sub, you get home cinema – just without a rack full of devices and without speaker cables running across the living room.

2. The Three Types: One-Body, Bar plus Subwoofer, Modular System

This is the most important branching point in the entire purchasing decision. Everything else is secondary.

One-Body Soundbar

A single enclosure, done. These bars are deliberately designed so that nothing can be added – no subwoofer, no rear speakers. All development effort goes into getting the maximum out of one enclosure: many individual drivers, elaborate signal processing, often automatic room calibration.

The result can be astonishing. Good representatives of this genre produce a bass where you truly don't miss a subwoofer, and a spatial impression that extends far beyond the width of the enclosure.

Advantages: absolutely minimal effort, one power cable, one HDMI cable, nothing else. No devices in the room, no additional power outlets, living room friendly.
Disadvantages: no expansion options whatsoever. What you buy is the final result. The spatial sound remains simulated to the rear.
Suitable for: anyone for whom inconspicuousness and simplicity are more important than the last ounce of surround effect. Living rooms where rear speakers couldn't be placed anyway.

How far the best representatives of this class come, we examined in a direct comparison:

Soundbar plus Subwoofer

The most common configuration. The bar handles dialogue, music, and effects, while the separate subwoofer handles deep bass. It is wirelessly connected in most systems and only needs a power outlet – making placement flexible.

Advantages: significantly more bass foundation and dynamics, noticeably more "cinema in your gut." The sub is often already included in sets.
Disadvantages: an additional device in the room that needs a place and a power outlet.
Suitable for: the vast majority. Those who like powerful movies but don't want speakers behind the sofa.

Subwoofer

Modular Expandable System

Here, the soundbar becomes the center of a true surround system: subwoofer plus two rear speakers, and with some systems, additional upward-firing drivers for height channels. The rears are wirelessly controlled and only need power – no speaker cable through the room.

And this is the crucial point: Here, surround is no longer simulated, but actually created. The sound genuinely comes from behind because there are actually speakers there.

Advantages: true all-around experience, often expandable step-by-step – first the bar, later the sub, even later the rears. Comes close to a classic home cinema setup, without an AV receiver and without cable routing.
Disadvantages: more devices, more power outlets, more planning. The most demanding class in terms of price.
Suitable for: anyone who truly wants to experience movies and is willing to place two small speakers behind the seating position.

Some systems go a step further and can be configured so that the soundbar only handles the center channel, while full-fledged stereo speakers stand to the left and right. This merges hi-fi and home cinema into one system. A highly exciting option for ambitious users.

We show what the large systems can do in a direct comparison here:

Soundbars

3. Audio Specialist or TV Manufacturer?

A decision point that is rarely discussed but greatly influences the outcome. Roughly, there are two camps.

Soundbars from audio manufacturers – meaning from companies that have been building speakers, headphones, or microphones for decades and do not have TVs in their product range.

• Usually higher sound quality, especially for music
• More solid enclosures and materials, often more durable quality
• Greater variety of connections, allowing even unusual configurations to work
• Often part of a multiroom ecosystem, so additional rooms can be connected
• Manufacturer-neutral: works with any TV, easily survives the next TV change
• Usually more expensive, and the subwoofer often has to be purchased separately

Soundbars from TV manufacturers – from companies that supply TVs and soundbars from a single source.

• Synergies with their own TV: wireless sound transmission without HDMI cable, or joint playback of TV speakers and soundbar
• Aesthetically often perfectly matched to specific TV series, sometimes exactly the same width
• Very attractive prices, often with subwoofer in the set
• But usually simpler enclosures and fewer connections
• Generally less convincing for music
• The extra features often only work with the corresponding TV of the same brand – the added value may disappear with the next TV change

Important, because many believe it: You do not have to buy the soundbar from the same manufacturer as your TV. Every soundbar works via HDMI or optical with every modern TV. Brand consistency brings convenience extras – nothing more, and it is never a prerequisite.

Rule of thumb: Pure TV sound and a tight budget favor TV manufacturers. As soon as music plays a role, you want long-term use, or have special connection situations, it's worth looking at audio specialists.

We listened through how the brands of both camps perform in a direct comparison, in two parts:

4. Connections: HDMI, ARC, eARC, and Optical

Most initial setups fail here – yet the matter is understood in five minutes.

HDMI ARC and eARC – The Normal Case

ARC stands for Audio Return Channel: an HDMI port on your TV that not only receives audio but also sends it back to the soundbar. One cable, both directions. The advantage: volume and on/off are controlled via the TV remote, regardless of the source you are currently using.

eARC is the newer, broader-bandwidth variant. It also transmits high-quality, uncompressed audio formats, including Dolby Atmos in full quality. With simple ARC, Atmos signals are only transmitted in compressed form.

Practically, this means: Check your TV for the HDMI port labeled ARC or eARC – only this one works for it. And use a high-quality HDMI cable; for eARC and high data rates, this is not esotericism, but simply a prerequisite. HDMI Cables

Optical – The Emergency Exit

Older TVs without ARC usually offer an optical digital output (Toslink). This works reliably but has two limitations: It does not transmit high-resolution audio formats or Dolby Atmos, and volume control via the TV remote must first be learned – which can sometimes be tricky with modern Bluetooth remotes.

Optical is the right choice for older devices, but not an equivalent replacement.

Additional HDMI Inputs – When They Truly Matter

Many soundbars only have one HDMI port for the TV. Others offer two to four additional inputs and thus function like a small AV receiver: source devices go into the bar, from there a cable goes to the screen.

You don't need this in normal TV operation – all sources run through the TV anyway.

But: If you work with a projector, it becomes crucial. Projectors usually don't support ARC, so they can't send audio back. A streaming box or Blu-ray player must then go into the soundbar, which passes the image to the projector. This can hardly be solved meaningfully with a bar that only has one HDMI port.

Also practical: analog inputs if you want to connect a record player or other analog device.

Key takeaway: Check connections before buying – they are the most common exclusion criterion that you only notice too late.

5. Understanding Surround and Dolby Atmos

Every package says Atmos. Nevertheless, not every Atmos bar sounds like a cinema. The reason lies in the difference between real and virtual.

Decoding the Numbers

Specifications like 3.1.2 or 5.1.2 follow a simple scheme:

• The first number indicates the main channels at ear level (left, center, right, possibly surround)
• The second number stands for the subwoofer channel
• The third number indicates the height channels for Dolby Atmos

Caution: These numbers indicate how many channels are processed – not necessarily how many actual speakers radiate in which direction. This is precisely where marketing leeway lies.

Real Atmos versus Virtual Atmos

Real Atmos means: The soundbar contains additional drivers that actually fire upwards. The sound goes to the ceiling, is reflected there, and reaches you from above. The effect is clearly audible – rain, helicopters, planes truly come from above you.

Virtual Atmos means: The bar decodes the signal and attempts to create a height effect through signal processing and timing tricks, without speakers firing upwards. This works with varying degrees of success but is generally more subtle.

Both are legitimate, both can be called "Dolby Atmos." But if the effect is important to you, explicitly check whether physical height speakers are installed.

The Room Matters More Than Any Data Sheet

For virtual or reflected surround, the result depends heavily on the room, as the technology works with reflections off walls and the ceiling:

• Well suited: reasonably enclosed, rather rectangular or square rooms with limited ceiling height. Seating position ideally in the middle.
• Difficult: open living-dining areas without side walls, sloped ceilings, very high ceilings, heavily sound-absorbing ceilings.

If your room is open, you will hardly be happy with simulated surround – then it is worth thinking directly about a system with real rear speakers. These work independently of the room geometry, because the sound originates where it should go.

The Most Common Atmos Trap: Placement

A soundbar with upward-firing speakers must not be pushed into a shelf. The sound hits the board above it, the reflection off the ceiling does not occur – the expensive height channel is ineffective. Even a TV mounted directly above it can block the path.

These bars belong free-standing on a sideboard, with as clear a path upwards as possible. If your furniture has a closed compartment, then a bar without height channels is the more honest choice – it can easily go into the shelf.

Dolby Atmos Speakers

6. Do I Need a Subwoofer?

The most common follow-up question of all – and the answer largely depends on the size of the bar.

Probably not, if:

• You have a large, voluminous soundbar with decent enclosure volume. Such bars produce astonishingly much bass themselves.
• You live in an apartment with thin walls and easily disturbed neighbors.
• You primarily watch news, series, and talk shows.
• There's simply no space for another device.

Probably yes, if:

• You have chosen a compact or flat soundbar. A small enclosure physically means little deep bass – here, the sub is not a luxury, but makes all the difference.
• You love action movies, live concert recordings, or games.
• Your room is larger than about 25 square meters.
• Music through the system is important to you.

Experience shows that about half of buyers operate a large bar without a subwoofer and are perfectly satisfied. For smaller bars, the ratio reverses.

Good tip: With most systems, you can retrofit the subwoofer at any time. Start without one, listen for a few weeks – and add it if you feel something is missing. This is more relaxed than making a decision in the store for something you've never heard.

Regarding placement: A subwoofer doesn't have to be next to the soundbar. Low frequencies are hardly localizable to the ear, so it can also be placed to the side or behind furniture. Corner placement increases the level but often makes the bass muddier. A few centimeters of distance from the wall usually works wonders. Proper Speaker Placement Guide

7. Listening to Music Through a Soundbar

A soundbar today is rarely just a TV speaker. Almost all offer streaming functions – and for many, it replaces the kitchen radio and the old living room stereo system at the same time.

What you should look for:

• Streaming standards: AirPlay for Apple devices, Google Cast for Android, Spotify Connect, sometimes direct integration of high-resolution services. Check if your preferred service and smartphone ecosystem are supported.
• Bluetooth: practical as a universal solution for guests – but audibly the weakest option. Some manufacturers deliberately omit it because they rely on Wi-Fi. Relevant for you if guests need to quickly play something.
• The App: underestimated yet crucial for daily use. It controls sources, sound settings, updates, and in some systems, room calibration. A mature, stable app is worth more than an extra feature on the packaging.
• Multiroom: If the soundbar belongs to an ecosystem, you can later add more rooms and play synchronized audio. If you're planning this, consider the system choice from the beginning. Multiroom

Regarding sound expectations: When it comes to music, the wheat is separated from the chaff more clearly than with movie sound. Movie sound thrives on effects and dynamics, while music thrives on tonality, soundstage, and timing. This is where soundbars from audio specialists show their strength – and where it's most worthwhile to audition them.

If music is your primary purpose and TV sound is just a side effect, it's also a valid question whether a pair of active speakers wouldn't be a better solution. Active Speakers

8. Size, Placement, and Aesthetics

Sober points that weigh more in everyday life than any datasheet.

Width: As a guideline, the soundbar should be roughly as wide as the TV or slightly narrower. Significantly wider looks unsettling, significantly narrower loses soundstage width. Rough estimates: about 1 meter works well with 50 to 60 inches, 1.20 to 1.30 meters with 65 inches and up, compact bars under 90 centimeters for secondary TVs in the bedroom or guest room.

Height: The often overlooked point. If the bar is in front of the TV, it must not extend into the picture or block the TV's infrared sensor. Measure how much space is left between the top edge of the sideboard and the bottom edge of the TV.

The TV Stand: Many TVs stand on a central or far-forward stand – the bar then cannot be placed close enough. Some manufacturers offer brackets where the TV is screwed to the soundbar. For a central stand, wall mounting is often the cleanest solution. Wall Mounts

Wall Mounting: Most soundbars can be wall-mounted; the height determines how inconspicuous it looks. Very flat bars almost disappear under the TV. Consider cable management – power and HDMI must go somewhere.

Color: Not every model is available in white. Sounds trivial, but in practice, it's a strict exclusion criterion and quickly shrinks the selection.

And once again: Soundbars with height channels need a clear path upwards. If placed in a shelf compartment, do not buy soundbars with height channels.

9. The Details You Only Notice Later

Remote control or app only? Some manufacturers include a dedicated remote control, while others consistently rely on smartphone control. Both have their logic – but honestly consider who will be operating the system. In households with children or older relatives, a physical remote control is invaluable. In normal TV operation, the TV remote usually handles things anyway.

Stability and compatibility: In a networked setup of TV, soundbar, streaming box, and Wi-Fi, there is no 100% compatibility. An occasional glitch, requiring a quick power reset, is normal – everyone knows that. However, if a device acts up daily, something is wrong. Experience shows that some manufacturers run noticeably more stable than others, especially when interacting via HDMI. This is a point where it's worth asking in a specialized shop, as we know this from customer feedback.

Product cycles and updates: Manufacturers with long product cycles of several years and regular software updates are more pleasant to own: the device stays current longer, depreciates slower, and new functions come via updates instead of new purchases. Soundbars that are closely tied to a specific TV generation, however, often age with the TV.

Service in case of emergency: How quickly and accommodatingly a manufacturer reacts in case of a defect is only noticed when it happens – and then it is very important. This is another argument for buying from a specialized shop rather than anonymously.

Room calibration: Some soundbars calibrate the room using a microphone or integrated sensors and correct the playback. This is not a gimmick, but can make the biggest single difference in challenging rooms – and is never performed by many owners. If your soundbar can do it: definitely use it.

10. Common Mistakes When Buying a Soundbar

• Not checking connections beforehand. The classic mistake. Especially painful with projector setups or when analog sources are to be connected.
• Placing an Atmos bar in a closed shelf compartment. The most expensive part of the bar then works in vain.
• Ignoring the height of the sideboard. The bar covers the lower third of the picture or the TV sensor.
• Believing the soundbar must match the TV brand. It doesn't. It just offers fewer convenience features.
• Attaching expectations to the wrong design type. A compact one-body bar doesn't deliver true surround sound – that's not a product weakness, but a matter of expectation.
• Saving too early on the subwoofer, despite the bar being small. For compact bars, the subwoofer is the biggest sound leap imaginable.
• Looking at the number of channels instead of the built-in speakers. 5.1.2 on the box says little about what actually radiates in which direction.
• Skipping room calibration. Takes five minutes and often changes more than any upgrade.
• Buying too cheaply just to have "something better for now." Frustration sets in after three months, and then you buy twice.

11. Decision Aid: The Exclusion Criteria Approach

Given the abundance of choices, you'll make the fastest progress not by searching for the "best" soundbar, but by systematically excluding everything that doesn't fit. Work through this list in order:

Step 1 – Dimensions. How wide can it be? How high? Will it stand freely or in a compartment? This often eliminates half the market already.

Step 2 – Budget. A realistic framework, including the question of whether a subwoofer and rears are already included or will be added separately.

Step 3 – Aesthetics. Color, material feel, is wall mounting possible? A device that clashes with your living room will never be well-received – no matter how it sounds.

Step 4 – Connections. Does your TV have ARC or eARC? Do you need additional HDMI inputs, for example for a projector? Do you want to connect analog sources?

Step 5 – What type of user are you?

• TV only: Soundbars from TV manufacturers are also a very good choice, often offering great value for money.
• Half TV, half music: Definitely look towards audio specialists.
Mainly music: Audio specialists, a good app, high-resolution streaming – and honestly assess whether active speakers wouldn't be better.

Step 6 – How far do you want to go?

• As simple as possible: One-body bar, one cable, done.
• Powerful movies: Bar plus subwoofer.
• True cinema experience: Modular system with rears, sub, and height channels.

Step 7 – Expansion plan. Do you want to expand later? Then the bar must already provide for this. A system that can be upgraded gives you time to buy in stages.

If you go through these seven points, typically two to three candidates remain. And then there's only one thing left to do: listen. Sound is subjective, and with two equally good devices, your personal taste decides – not the datasheet.

Exactly at this point, we are happy to help you: Come visit us at our store near Hamburg and listen to your favorites at your leisure. If that's not possible, we'll advise you just as thoroughly by phone or email – just tell us about your room, your TV, and what you intend to do with it.

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FAQ

Do I necessarily need HDMI, or is an optical cable sufficient?

Optical works and is the right solution for older TVs. However, for Dolby Atmos and high-resolution audio formats, you need HDMI with eARC. If your TV has it, use it.

Does the soundbar have to be from the same brand as my TV?

No. Every soundbar works with every modern TV. The same brands sometimes offer convenience extras like wireless transmission or playing jointly with the TV speakers – but this is never necessary.

Is "Dolby Atmos" on the packaging always true Atmos?

No. Some devices only decode Atmos and simulate the height effect without upward-firing speakers. If this effect is important to you, specifically look for physical height drivers – and then place the bar freely.

Can a soundbar replace a stereo system or a home theater?

It remains a compromise between effort and result – but how big that compromise is depends on the choice. Good soundbars perform surprisingly well in stereo, and modular systems with real rears and subwoofers deliver true surround sound. Limitations tend to remain with very large rooms, maximum volumes, and the free placement of individual speakers.

Can I upgrade the subwoofer and rear speakers later?

Yes, with modular systems, and that's a very sensible approach. With one-body soundbars, generally no – they are deliberately designed as self-contained units. If you want to keep the option of later expansion open, you must decide this at the time of purchase.

How loud can a soundbar be in a rented apartment?

The problem is rarely the bar itself, but the subwoofer: deep tones travel through walls and ceilings. Decoupling the subwoofer from the floor helps noticeably, as does placing it outside of room corners. Dampers / Decouplers

Author: Frank Buck