You have an audio system you're happy with. The amplifier has been running flawlessly for years, the speakers sound good – but it just can't stream. And the obvious concern is: Do I have to replace everything now?

The answer is reassuring: No. Almost any system can be made streaming-capable – often with a single add-on device, without having to replace anything. This applies to an integrated amplifier from the eighties as well as to a current device.

This guide will show you step-by-step how to do it:

  • How to find out what free connections your system actually has
  • What options are available – from free makeshift solutions to clean setups
  • Whether you should connect analog or digital
  • How to integrate your own CD collection
  • What to look for when buying the add-on device
  • When upgrading is worthwhile – and when a new device is the better choice

By the end, you'll know which approach suits your system and what you need for it. There's also a checklist to take away.

If you first want to clarify the basics – services, resolutions, quality levels – then it's better to start here: Understanding Music Streaming: Services, Resolution, Getting Started

Contents

The good news: Almost every system can be upgraded

The principle is astonishingly simple – and once you understand it, the whole topic loses its intimidation factor.

Streaming is added to the system externally. An add-on device retrieves music from the internet or your home network, converts it into a standard audio signal, and passes it to your amplifier. For the amplifier, this device is no different from a CD player: a source connected to an input that delivers music.

This means: Your amplifier doesn't need to do anything for this. It doesn't need a network, an app, or a display. It just needs a free input.

This is precisely why upgrading works even with devices decades old – often even particularly well, because a lot of money went into pure amplifier quality in such amplifiers. A solid old device plus a modern streamer often results in a combination that would be significantly more expensive to buy new.

Step 1: What does your system have free? The connection diagnosis

Before you buy anything, take a look at the back of your amplifier. What's free there determines which device is right for you.

Is an analog line or aux input free?

Look for an input pair labeled something like AUX, Line, Tape, Tuner, CD 2 or similar – two RCA jacks, usually one white and one red. This is the input that many people have wondered for years what it was actually for. Now you know.

If something is free here, you already have a solid basis. Note, however: Not every streamer has an analog output. There are pure transports that output the signal exclusively digitally and require a converter elsewhere – in the amplifier or in a separate device. Conversely, almost every streamer can be connected digitally. A free line input is therefore a good starting point, but not a carte blanche: Check the specific device to see what outputs it has.

Is a digital input free?

Many amplifiers also have optical (Toslink, square jack with flap) or coaxial digital inputs (a single RCA jack, usually marked orange). Behind this is a built-in D/A converter – so the amplifier can process digital signals itself. This is more common than many think, and it opens up an additional option for connection.

What if nothing is free?

No need to panic, there are several ways out:

  • Rearrange sources. Honestly asked: When did the cassette deck last run? When did the tuner? Very often, an input is occupied by a device that hasn't been used for years – and the streamer will replace exactly that anyway, for example, with internet radio.
  • Choose a streamer with its own inputs. Some streamers come with additional inputs themselves – analog, digital, or both. This way, you simply move an existing source to the streamer and connect only the streamer to the free spot on the amplifier. This turns one occupied input into two usable ones, without an additional box in the chain.
  • Switch to a combination device. If the amplifier is already reaching its limits, this is the moment to consider a device with built-in streaming. More on this below.

Special case: Amplifiers with very few inputs

Some classic devices offer only phono and one or two line inputs. The same applies here: a single free line input is completely sufficient. The phono input, on the other hand, is out of the question – it is specifically designed for the very quiet signal of a turntable and is unsuitable for anything else.

[IMAGE SUGGESTION: 1) Labeled amplifier rear with marked line/aux inputs, digital inputs and phono 2) Close-up of optical and coaxial digital inputs side-by-side 3) Streamer and amplifier connected, cable path visible]

Are you unsure which jacks are which on your system? Just send us a photo of the back – we'll tell you in two sentences what's free and what fits.

Step 2: An overview of the options

There are several ways to bring streaming to an existing system. We will go through them in ascending order – from makeshift solutions to the solution we would recommend ourselves.

Option 1: Mobile phone or laptop via cable

The simplest way to get started: a jack-to-RCA cable from the headphone output of your mobile phone or laptop to the free line input, and you're done. Apart from the cable and a streaming subscription – for which there are free trial months almost everywhere – you don't need anything else.

What it's good for: To try out whether streaming even suits your listening habits. It's the most honest first step for that, and no one should be too proud to do it.

Where it falters: The sound quality depends entirely on the converter and output of your mobile phone – and these are optimized for headphones, not for a stereo system. Then there's everyday life: a call interrupts the music, the battery runs low, the phone is tied to the cable. Anyone who works at the computer all day also rarely feels like picking up the same device for music enjoyment in the evening.

Option 2: USB converter on a computer or mobile phone

If it absolutely has to be the computer – for example, because your entire music collection is stored there – there's a significant leap in quality for little money: a small external D/A converter that connects to the USB port.

The effect is considerable because it bypasses the computer's built-in converter and headphone output. Instead of the sound card, a device specifically designed for this task is used. Such converters are available in stick size as well as full-fledged components – and also for smartphones and tablets. D/A converters

For whom: Exclusively for those who want or need to use their computer as a source. If you opt for a standalone streamer instead (Option 4), you generally won't need such an additional device – a converter is already on board there.

Option 3: Bluetooth receiver

A small box connected to the line input that receives Bluetooth from your phone. Affordable, set up in five minutes, works with everything.

We're honest: From our perspective, this is a makeshift solution. Bluetooth always compresses the signal for the wireless transmission – how much depends on the method used, but it remains a bottleneck. In addition, your phone becomes the player, with all the disadvantages from Option 1: calls interrupt, the battery suffers, the range is limited.

When it's still perfectly fine: For the second system in the kitchen, hobby room, or on the terrace. For occasional listening without high demands. And as a practical additional function if a streamer already includes it – more on that in a moment.

What it's not suitable for: For the good system in the living room if you consciously listen to music there.

Option 4: A dedicated network streamer

This is the solution we recommend in most cases.

A streamer is a device that has exactly one task: to get music from the network and pass it on to your amplifier. It is connected like a CD player – analog or digital – and integrated into the home network, via cable or Wi-Fi.

The crucial difference to Bluetooth: The streamer retrieves the music itself from the internet. Your phone only tells it what to play, and thus acts purely as a remote control. You can put it away, it can ring, it can go into standby – the music continues to play.

This is what it looks like in everyday life: Switch on the amplifier, select the appropriate input, open the app on your phone or tablet, and start the music. That's all there is to it.

What you can listen to with it:

  • Internet radio – an almost immeasurable variety of stations from all over the world. For many of our customers, this alone is reason enough to connect their system to the network.
  • Streaming services – a huge music catalog for a subscription.
  • Your own music collection from your home network.
  • Podcasts.

We demonstrated how this works in practice with a classic system in front of the camera – from connection to the first music:

Streamer

Option 5: A streamer with CD drive and storage

A special form that is interesting for collectors: devices that also include a CD drive and a built-in hard drive. You insert a CD, the device automatically copies it to the internal storage and then makes it available just like a streaming service – via the same app.

For anyone with a large CD collection who doesn't want to digitize it via computer, this is the most convenient way. More on this below.

Option 6: Multi-room devices on the existing amplifier

If it is foreseeable that more rooms will be added later, it is worth looking at multi-room systems. All common ecosystems offer devices that connect to an existing system just like a streamer – and can later be supplemented with speakers in other rooms, all via one app.

The point here is: the systems usually cannot be mixed. If multi-room could become an issue, it's better to decide on the right ecosystem now than to do it twice later. Overview of Multi-room Systems · Sonos System · BluOS System

Step 3: Connect analog or digital?

If your streamer offers both options and your amplifier does too, the question arises: Which way is better?

Behind this is a simple consideration. Somewhere in the chain, the digital data must be converted into analog signals that the amplifier can process. This is done by a D/A converter. The only question is: which one? In most cases, at least one is already present – in the streamer, in the amplifier, or in both.

  • Analog connected (RCA from streamer to line input): The converter in the streamer does the work.
  • Digital connected (optical or coaxial): The converter in the amplifier does it – or, if available, a separate external converter.

The practical rule of thumb: Take the path where the better converter is used.

  • If your amplifier has no digital input at all: connect analog, completely unproblematic. This is the normal case with classic devices and not a compromise – the converter in the streamer handles it.
  • If you have a high-quality streamer and a rather simple digital section in the amplifier: analog.
  • If you have a simple streamer and an amplifier with a good digital section: digital.
  • When in doubt: Try both, if possible. The differences are usually audible, but not dramatic – and which way you prefer is also a matter of taste.

A separate external converter is not a must, but an option for those who want to specifically upgrade: a streamer with a digital output plus a high-quality converter is a proven combination because both parts can be improved independently. You don't need this to get started. D/A Converters

A word on cabling: Make sure to cable cleanly and neatly – sufficient but not exaggerated lengths, signal cables preferably not parallel to power cables, firm plug connections. This sounds trivial, but it prevents precisely the humming noises and dropouts that are later misunderstood as device errors. Analog Cables

Connecting to the network: Wired or Wi-Fi

The streamer needs to be connected to the home network. There are two ways to do this – and a clear recommendation.

Network cable, whenever possible. This is the most reliable connection, costs little, and eliminates most dropout problems before they even arise. If the router and system are in the same room or a cable is already laid: Use the cable.

Wi-Fi, if a cable isn't possible. Works without problems in most households. Problems almost never arise from the internet connection – audio streaming requires surprisingly little bandwidth – but rather within the home network: thick walls, a router in the hallway cabinet, overcrowded radio channels in apartment buildings, too many devices simultaneously.

If the Wi-Fi at the location is weak, a mesh system or an additional access point near the system will help significantly more than any accessory. Powerline adapters, which route the network over the power lines, are also a practical interim solution if a cable cannot be laid.

When buying a device, make sure that a network connection is actually available. Devices that only support Wi-Fi deprive you of the most reliable option. Network Switches · Network Cables

Taking your own CD collection with you

Not everyone wants to rely on streaming services. Those who have a CD collection that has grown over the years often prefer to have it available themselves – and this can be perfectly combined with streaming.

Why it's worth it

The practical reason: If there are two or three systems in the house, no one has to carry CDs back and forth anymore. The entire collection is available everywhere, in the same way as streaming services and internet radio – in an app, with search function and cover view.

In addition: Your collection belongs to you. It won't disappear from a catalog when a license expires.

How to digitize your CDs

On the computer. With a CD drive and appropriate software, you transfer the CDs to the hard drive. Costs nothing but time – and time is the honest factor here: Allow about five to ten minutes per CD including labeling. For 300 CDs, this is a project for several evenings.

With a device that can do it itself. There are streamers with a built-in CD drive and internal hard drive. You insert the CD, the device automatically copies it and organizes it into the library. Significantly more convenient because no computer is involved. The storage space of such devices is typically in magnitudes that can easily accommodate even very large collections.

Where the music is stored

  • Internally in the device – easiest if the streamer comes with a hard drive.
  • On a NAS – this is a hard drive that is not connected to the computer but directly to the router. This makes it accessible to all devices in the house, even when no computer is running. The cleanest solution for larger collections and multiple systems in the house.
  • On the computer – works, but requires the computer to be running when listening to music.

In all cases: Remember to make a backup copy. A digitized collection is work, and hard drives fail.

And the quality?

The most important point when ripping: Save losslessly. What lacks in quality at the source cannot come out of the speakers at the end – and nobody wants to re-digitize a painstakingly collected library in a few years just because storage space was saved back then. Storage is cheap today; the format should be lossless, not compressed. CD Player

What to look for in a retrofit device

In order, from most important to nice-to-have:

1. Does it support your streaming service? By far the most important point – and the one that causes the most trouble later. Not every device integrates every service directly. Check this before buying. Everything else can be adapted, but not this.

2. Do the outputs match your free input? Sounds obvious, but is regularly overlooked. Analog output for a line input, digital output for a digital input – and if in doubt, choose a device that offers both. Remember that pure transporters only output digitally.

3. What resolutions does it process? If you want to listen losslessly or at a higher resolution, the device must be able to pass that through.

4. Does it have a network connection? Not just Wi-Fi. See above.

5. How good is the app – and is it maintained? In everyday use, you'll almost exclusively operate it via the app. A sluggish or cluttered app can spoil more enjoyment than many a sonic difference. And because services are constantly evolving, the manufacturer's update policy is a real buying criterion – though this only becomes apparent after years, which is why looking at the manufacturer's history helps.

6. Can you integrate your own collection? Support for network libraries, USB storage, or an internal hard drive.

7. Is it multiroom capable? Even if it's only one room today.

8. Does it include a Bluetooth input? Not a good idea as a primary method – but practical as an additional feature. This allows you to connect sources to your system for which there's no dedicated app integration: video portals, podcast apps, websites where you've just discovered something. For occasional use, this is perfect.

9. And finally: How does it sound? Streamers don't all sound the same, even if they process the same data. Power supply, converter, and output stage make audible differences. If two candidates meet your requirements, your ear decides.

We show you which devices are available for this and what is important for connection and operation here:

Retrofit or buy new? The honest consideration

At some point, the question arises whether an additional device is the right way – or whether it would make more sense to replace the amplifier with a model with built-in streaming.

Arguments for retrofitting:

  • Your amplifier is good, and you are satisfied with the sound. Then there is no reason to replace it – on the contrary: Many older amplifiers possess an amplifier quality that would be significantly more expensive to acquire new.
  • The investment remains manageable, and you only change what needs to be changed.
  • A streamer is portable. If you later replace the amplifier, you can keep it.
  • You can specifically invest in exactly the quality that is important to you.

Arguments for a combination device:

  • Your amplifier is outdated anyway, or you were never entirely happy with it.
  • No input is free, and you don't want to add another device to the chain.
  • You want fewer devices, fewer cables, and fewer remote controls – one device, one app.
  • You are already considering whether a new system would make sense.

A sensible middle ground for the undecided: Retrofit and continue to use the existing system for now. If a new amplifier comes later, the streamer is not lost. The reverse is not true. Streaming Amplifiers · Amplifier Buying Guide: Which Type Suits Me?

Typical mistakes when retrofitting

Bought Bluetooth and expected true streaming. The most common misconception. A Bluetooth receiver does not make your system network-capable – it turns it into your phone's speaker. That's something entirely different.

Bought the device before checking one's own service. Always the other way around: first check which device supports your streaming service.

The connection issue was only clarified after the purchase. Five minutes looking at the back saves a return shipment – on both sides: which input on the amplifier is free and what outputs the desired device even has.

Saved compressed when ripping. Saves storage space that no one needs to save today – and costs quality that won't come back. Nobody wants to re-import their entire collection again.

A Hi-Res subscription on a chain that doesn't pass it through. Paying for the high-quality tier and then transmitting it via Bluetooth or playing it through a device that doesn't even process it.

Attributed dropouts to the electronics. In nine out of ten cases, it's the Wi-Fi, not the device. A network cable solves more problems than any upgrade.

Untidily cabled. Signal cables close to power cables, loose plugs, excessively long cables tangled behind the rack – the classic causes of humming and interference that are then attributed to the new device.

Checklist: Six steps to a streaming-capable system

  1. Check the back. Is a Line/Aux input free? A digital input? If nothing is free: Which device can be removed?
  2. Choose streaming service. First the service, then the device. Use trial months.
  3. Clarify network. Can a network cable reach the installation location? If not: How good is the Wi-Fi there?
  4. Consider your own collection. Should CDs or downloads be integrated? Then look for network library, USB, or internal storage.
  5. Think about the future. Planning additional rooms? Then choose the right multiroom system right away.
  6. Connect and listen. Analog or digital – and if both are possible, feel free to try both.

Conclusion: What suits whom

You just want to know if streaming is for you at all → Connect your phone or laptop via cable to a free input, sign up for a trial month. You don't need more than a cable for that.

The computer is already your music source → an external USB converter. Biggest leap in quality for the least effort. D/A Converter

It's about the secondary system in the kitchen or hobby room → a Bluetooth receiver is perfectly sufficient, and there's no shame in that.

You have a good system and want to keep it → a dedicated network streamer. This is the right path for most people. Streamer

You have a large CD collection that you want to integrate → a streamer with a CD drive and storage, or a NAS as a base.

If you want multiple rooms → first choose the multiroom system, then the device. Multiroom Systems Overview

The amplifier is due for replacement anyway, or there's no input left → a streaming amplifier as a complete solution. Streaming Amplifiers

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make my old system streaming-capable at all – or do I have to buy new?

In almost all cases, yes, and you don't have to replace anything. Streaming is added to the system via an additional device that connects to a free input – like a CD player. Your amplifier doesn't need to be able to do anything itself. Age is irrelevant; often, a solid older amplifier is an excellent basis.

What connection do I need for this?

A free pair of RCA inputs is sufficient – usually labeled AUX, Line, Tape, or Tuner. If your amplifier also has an optical or coaxial digital input, that's a second option, because then a D/A converter is already built into the amplifier. Only the Phono input is unsuitable; it's specifically designed for turntables.

What is the difference between a streamer and a Bluetooth adapter?

A Bluetooth adapter turns your system into your phone's speaker: The phone plays and transmits the compressed signal. A streamer connects to the network itself and retrieves music directly from the internet – the phone is just a remote control. This is audibly better and much more pleasant in everyday use because calls, battery status, and range no longer play a role.

Isn't a cheap Bluetooth receiver sufficient?

For a secondary system, the kitchen, or occasional music listening: yes, absolutely. For a good system in the living room, we would advise against it, because Bluetooth always compresses the signal and your phone becomes the source device. As an additional function on a proper streamer, however, Bluetooth is very practical – for example, for sources without their own app integration.

Do I also need a D/A converter?

Usually not. Most streamers come with their own converter and can be connected directly analog to the amplifier. And many amplifiers have a converter and digital inputs built in. A separate converter is worthwhile if you specifically want to upgrade, if you already own a good one, if your streamer is a pure transporter without an analog output – or if you use a computer as a source, because there, a USB converter makes the biggest leap.

How do I get my CD collection onto the system?

Either on a computer with ripping software, or with a streamer that has a built-in CD drive and hard drive and copies the CDs itself. It is saved internally, on a NAS, or on the computer. Important: save losslessly and create a backup. Expect about five to ten minutes per CD.

Should I connect analog or digital?

That depends on which converter is better. Analog uses the converter in the streamer, digital uses the one in the amplifier or an external converter. If your amplifier has no digital input, connect it analog – this is completely unproblematic and the norm for classic devices. If both are possible, try both.

Do I have to lay a network cable or is Wi-Fi sufficient?

Wi-Fi is sufficient in most households. If a cable is possible, take it anyway – it's the most reliable connection and prevents dropouts before they occur. Bandwidth is rarely the problem: audio streaming requires significantly less than video.

What if my amplifier no longer has a free input?

Three ways: First, check if a occupied input is still really needed – often there's a device connected that hasn't been used for years, and the streamer will replace it anyway. Second, there are streamers with their own inputs to which you can connect an existing source; this effectively gains you a connection. Third, this is the moment to consider an amplifier with built-in streaming.

Is retrofitting even worth it, or is it better to just get a new amplifier with streaming?

If you are satisfied with your amplifier: retrofit. You keep the sound, invest specifically, and can take the streamer with you later if you do replace the amplifier. A combination device is a good idea if the amplifier is due for replacement anyway, no input is free, or you simply want fewer devices in the living room.

Unsure what fits your system? Talk to us

When retrofitting, almost everything depends on two things: what's available on the back of your amplifier and which service you want to use. Both can be clarified in a short conversation – and after that, the selection is usually manageable.

Call us or write to us. The quickest way is to send us a photo of the back of your amplifier and briefly tell us how you want to listen to music. We will honestly tell you which path suits you – and also if the inexpensive solution is perfectly sufficient.

And if you like: Come by and hear the difference between the options yourself. In this topic, that is often more convincing than any description.

View Consultation & Installation →
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Author: Frank Buck

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