Making an Existing System Streaming-Capable: Here's How

You have an audio system that you are happy with. The amplifier has been running flawlessly for years, the speakers sound good – but it just can't stream. And the obvious concern is: does everything have to be replaced now?

The answer is thankfully: no. Almost any system can be made streaming-capable – often with a single add-on device, without you having to replace anything. This applies to an integrated amplifier from the eighties just as much as to a current device.

This guide shows you, step by step, how to do it:

How to find out what free connections your system has
What options are available – from a free makeshift solution to a clean setup
Whether you should connect analog or digital
How to integrate your own CD collection
What to look for when buying an add-on device
When upgrading is worthwhile – and when a new device is the better choice

By the end, you'll know which option suits your system and what you need for it. There's also a checklist to take with you.

If you want to clarify the basics first – services, resolutions, quality levels – then it's better to start here: [LINK → Blog: Understanding Music Streaming: Services, Resolution, Getting Started]

The good news: almost every system can be upgraded
Step 1: What free connections does your system have? The connection diagnosis
Step 2: An overview of the options
Step 3: Connect analog or digital?
Connect to network: cable or Wi-Fi
Take your own CD collection with you
What to look for in an upgrade device
Upgrade or just buy new? The honest assessment
Common mistakes when upgrading
Checklist: Your streaming system in six steps
Conclusion: What suits whom
FAQ

The good news: almost every system can be upgraded

The principle is surprisingly simple – and once you understand it, the whole topic loses its intimidation factor.

Streaming is added to the system externally. An add-on device retrieves music from the internet or your home network, converts it into a normal audio signal, and passes it on to your amplifier. For the amplifier, this device is nothing more than a CD player: a source connected to an input that delivers music.

This means: Your amplifier doesn't need to be able to do anything special. It doesn't need a network, an app, or a display. It just needs a free input.

This is precisely why upgrading works even with devices that are decades old – often even particularly well, because a lot of money was invested in the pure amplifier quality of such devices. A solid old device plus a modern streamer often results in a combination that would be significantly more expensive to get new.

Step 1: What free connections does your system have? The connection diagnosis

Before you buy anything, take a look at the back of your amplifier. What's free there will determine which device is suitable for you.

Is an analog line or aux input free?

Look for an input pair labeled something like AUX, Line, Tape, Tuner, CD 2 – two RCA jacks, usually one white and one red. This is the input that many have wondered about for years what it's actually for. Now you know.

If something is free here, you already have a solid basis. Note, however, that not every streamer has an analog output. There are pure transporters that output the signal exclusively digitally and require a converter elsewhere – in the amplifier or in a separate device. Conversely, practically every streamer can be connected digitally. So, a free line input is a good starting point, but not a carte blanche: check the specific device for its outputs.

Is a digital input free?

Many amplifiers also have optical (Toslink, square jack with flap) or coaxial digital inputs (a single RCA jack, usually orange-marked). Behind this is a built-in D/A converter – the amplifier can process digital signals itself. This is more common than many think and offers you an additional connection option.

And if nothing is free?

No need to panic, there are several ways out:

Reorganize sources. Honestly asked: When was the last time the cassette deck ran? When was the tuner? Very often, an input is occupied by a device that hasn't been used for years – and that's exactly what the streamer will replace anyway, for example when it comes to radio via internet radio.
Choose a streamer with its own inputs. Some streamers come with additional inputs – analog, digital, or both. This way, you simply move an existing source to the streamer and connect only the streamer to the free spot on the amplifier. An occupied input thus becomes two usable ones, without an additional box in the chain.
Switch to a combination device. If the amplifier is already reaching its limits, this is the moment to consider a device with built-in streaming. More on this below.

Special case: Amplifiers with very few inputs

Some classic devices only offer phono and one or two line inputs. The same applies here: a single free line input is perfectly sufficient. The phono input, however, is out – it is specifically designed for the very quiet signal of a turntable and unsuitable for anything else.

[IMAGE SUGGESTION: 1) Labeled amplifier rear panel with marked line/aux inputs, digital inputs, and phono 2) Close-up of optical and coaxial digital inputs side by side 3) Streamer and amplifier connected, cable path visible]

Are you unsure which jacks are which on your system? Simply send us a photo of the back – we'll tell you in two sentences what's free and what fits. [CTA → Contact form]

Step 2: An overview of the options

There are several ways to add streaming to an existing system. We'll go through them in ascending order – from a makeshift solution to the solution we would recommend ourselves.

Option 1: Mobile phone or laptop via cable

The simplest way to start: a jack-to-RCA cable from the headphone output of your mobile phone or laptop to the free line input, and you're done. Apart from the cable and a streaming subscription – for which free trial months are available almost everywhere – you don't need anything else.

What it's good for: To try out if streaming suits your listening habits at all. For that, it's the most honest first step, and no one should be too proud for it.

Where it falls short: The sound quality depends entirely on the converter and the output of your mobile phone – and these are optimized for headphones, not for a stereo system. Added to this is everyday life: a call interrupts the music, the battery runs out, the mobile phone is tethered by the cable. Anyone who works on the computer all day rarely feels like picking up the same device for music enjoyment in the evening.

Option 2: USB converter on computer or mobile phone

If it has to be the computer for a specific reason – for example, because your entire music collection is stored there – there's a significant quality leap for little money: a small external D/A converter that connects to the USB port.

The effect is considerable because it bypasses the computer's built-in converter and headphone output. Instead of the sound card, a device built specifically for this task is used. Such converters are available both in stick size and as a full-fledged component – and also for smartphones and tablets. [LINK → D/A Converter]

For whom: Exclusively for those who want or need to use the computer as a source. Those who opt for a standalone streamer instead (Option 4) generally don't need such an additional device – a converter is already on board there.

Option 3: Bluetooth receiver

A small box on the line input that receives Bluetooth from your phone. Affordable, set up in five minutes, works with everything.

We're honest: From our perspective, this is a last resort. Bluetooth always compresses the signal for the radio link – how much depends on the method used, but it remains a bottleneck. In addition, your phone becomes the player, with all the disadvantages from Option 1: calls interrupt, the battery suffers, the range is limited.

When it's still perfectly fine: For the second system in the kitchen, hobby room, or on the terrace. For occasional listening to music without high demands. And as a practical additional function if a streamer already includes it – more on that below.

What it's not suitable for: For the good system in the living room, if you consciously listen to music there.

Option 4: A dedicated network streamer

This is the solution we recommend in most cases.

A streamer is a device that has exactly one job: to retrieve music from the network and pass it on to your amplifier. It is connected like a CD player – analog or digital – and integrated into your home network, via cable or Wi-Fi.

The crucial difference to Bluetooth: The streamer retrieves the music itself from the internet. Your phone only tells it what to play and thus acts as a pure remote control. You can put it away, it can ring, it can go into standby – the music continues to play.

This is what it looks like in everyday life: Turn on the amplifier, select the corresponding input, open the app on your phone or tablet, and start the music. That's all there is to it.

What you can listen to with it:

Internet radio – an almost immeasurable variety of stations from all over the world. For many of our customers, this alone is reason enough to connect their system to the network.
Streaming services – a huge music catalog for a subscription fee.
Your own music collection from your home network.
Podcasts.

[LINK → Streamer]

Option 5: A streamer with CD drive and storage

A special form that is interesting for collectors: devices that also include a CD drive and an internal hard drive. You insert a CD, the device automatically copies it to internal storage, and then it becomes available just like a streaming service – via the same app.

For anyone with a large CD collection who doesn't want to digitize it via computer, this is the most convenient way. More on this below.

Option 6: Multi-room devices with an existing amplifier

If it's likely that additional rooms will be added later, it's worth considering multi-room systems. All common ecosystems offer devices that connect to an existing system just like a streamer – and can later be expanded with speakers in other rooms, all controlled via one app.

The point here is that these systems usually cannot be mixed. If multi-room could be an issue, it's better to decide on the right ecosystem now rather than having to buy twice later. [LINK → Blog: Multi-room systems overview] [LINK → Sonos System] [LINK → BluOS System]

Step 3: Connect analog or digital?

If your streamer offers both options and your amplifier does too, the question arises: Which way is better?

Behind this is a simple consideration. Somewhere in the chain, digital data must be converted into analog signals that the amplifier can process. This is done by a D/A converter. The only question is: which one? In most cases, at least one is already present – in the streamer, in the amplifier, or in both.

Analog connected (RCA from streamer to line input): The converter in the streamer does the work.
Digital connected (optical or coaxial): The converter in the amplifier does it – or, if available, a separate external converter.

The practical rule of thumb: Take the path where the better converter is used.

If your amplifier has no digital input at all: connect analog, completely unproblematic. This is the normal case with classic devices and not a compromise – the converter in the streamer handles it.
If you have a high-quality streamer and a rather simple digital section in the amplifier: analog.
If you have a simple streamer and an amplifier with a good digital section: digital.
When in doubt: try both if possible. The differences are usually audible, but not dramatic – and which way you prefer is also a matter of taste.

A separate external converter is not a must, but an option for those who want to specifically upgrade: a streamer with a digital output plus a high-quality converter is a proven combination because both parts can be improved independently. For getting started, you don't need that. [LINK → D/A Converter] [LINK → Cables: RCA]

A word on cabling: Make sure to cable cleanly and tidily – sufficient but not exaggerated lengths, signal cables preferably not parallel to power cables, firm plug connections. This sounds trivial, but it prevents precisely the hums and dropouts that are later misunderstood as device errors. [LINK → Analog Cables] [LINK → Blog: Which cable for what? Speaker, analog & power cables]

Connect to network: cable or Wi-Fi

The streamer needs to be connected to the home network. There are two ways – and a clear recommendation.

Network cable, whenever possible. This is the most reliable connection, costs little, and eliminates most drop-out problems before they even arise. If the router and system are in the same room or a line is laid: use the cable.

Wi-Fi, if a cable isn't an option. Works without problems in most households. Problems almost never arise from the internet connection – audio streaming requires surprisingly little bandwidth – but within the home network: thick walls, a router in the hallway cabinet, overcrowded radio channels in apartment buildings, too many devices simultaneously.

If the Wi-Fi at the setup location is weak, a mesh system or an additional access point near the system helps significantly more than any accessories. Powerline adapters, which route the network over the power line, are also a practical interim solution if a cable cannot be laid.

When purchasing a device, make sure that a network connection is available at all. Devices that can only do Wi-Fi take away your most reliable option. [LINK → Network Switches] [LINK → Cables: Network]

Take your own CD collection with you

Not everyone wants to rely on streaming services. Those who have a CD collection that has grown over the years often prefer to have it available themselves – and this can be excellently combined with streaming.

Why it's worth it

The practical reason: If there are two or three systems in the house, no one has to carry CDs back and forth anymore. The entire collection is available everywhere, in the same way as streaming services and internet radio – in one app, with a search function and cover view.

In addition: Your collection belongs to you. It won't disappear from a catalog when a license expires.

How to digitize your CDs

On the computer. With a CD drive and appropriate software, you transfer the CDs to the hard drive. Costs nothing but time – and time is the honest factor here: allow about five to ten minutes per CD, including labeling. With 300 CDs, this is a project for several evenings.

With a device that can do it itself. There are streamers with a built-in CD drive and internal hard drive. You insert the CD, the device automatically transfers it and organizes it into the library. Significantly more convenient because no computer is involved. The storage capacity of such devices is typically in magnitudes that can easily accommodate even very large collections.

Where the music is stored

Internally in the device – simplest if the streamer comes with a hard drive.
On a NAS – this is a hard drive that is not connected to a computer, but directly to the router. This makes it accessible to all devices in the house, even when no computer is running. For larger collections and multiple systems in the house, this is the cleanest solution.
On the computer – works, but requires the computer to be running when listening to music.

In all cases: Remember to make a backup copy. A digitized collection is work, and hard drives fail.

And the quality?

The most important point when ripping: Save lossless. What is missing in quality at the source cannot come out of the speaker at the end – and no one wants to re-do a painstakingly digitized collection in a few years just because storage space was saved back then. Storage is cheap today; the format should be lossless, not compressed. [LINK → CD Player]

What to look for in an upgrade device

In order, from most important to nice-to-have:

1. Does it support your streaming service? By far the most important point – and the one that will cause the most trouble later. Not every device integrates every service directly. Check this before buying. Everything else can be adapted, but this cannot.

2. Do the outputs match your free input? Sounds obvious, but is regularly overlooked. Analog output for a line input, digital output for a digital input – and if in doubt, choose a device that offers both. Remember that pure transports only output digitally.

3. Which resolutions does it process? If you want to listen lossless or at a higher resolution, the device must be able to pass that through.

4. Does it have a network connection? Not just Wi-Fi. See above.

5. How good is the app – and is it maintained? In everyday life, you almost exclusively use the app. A sluggish or cluttered app spoils more enjoyment than many a sonic difference. And because services are constantly evolving, the manufacturer's update policy is a real buying criterion – however, this only becomes apparent after years, which is why a look at the manufacturer's history helps.

6. Can you integrate your own collection? Support for network libraries, USB storage, or an internal hard drive.

7. Is it multi-room capable? Even if it's only one room today.

8. Does it have a Bluetooth input? Not a good idea as a primary method – but practical as an additional feature. This allows you to connect sources to the system for which there is no dedicated app integration: video portals, podcast apps, websites where you just discovered something. For occasional use, this is exactly right.

9. And finally: How does it sound? Streamers don't all sound the same, even if they process the same data. Power supply, converter, and output stage make audible differences. If two candidates meet your requirements, your ear decides.

Retrofit or buy new? The honest assessment

Eventually, the question arises whether an additional device is the right way – or whether it would be more sensible to simply replace the amplifier with a model with built-in streaming.

Arguments for retrofitting:

Your amplifier is good and you are satisfied with the sound. Then there is no reason to replace it – on the contrary: many older amplifiers contain an amplification quality that would be much more expensive to get new.
The investment remains manageable, and you only change what needs to be changed.
A streamer is portable. If you replace the amplifier later, you keep it.
You can specifically invest in exactly the quality that is important to you.

Arguments for a combination device:

Your amplifier is already getting old or you were never completely happy with it.
There are no more free inputs, and you don't want to add another device to the chain.
You want fewer devices, fewer cables, and fewer remote controls – one device, one app.
You are already considering whether a new system would be worthwhile.

A sensible compromise for the undecided: Retrofit and continue to use the existing system for now. If a new amplifier comes later, the streamer is not lost. The reverse is not true. [LINK → Streaming Amplifier] [LINK → Blog: Amplifier Buying Guide: Which Type Suits Me?]

Typical mistakes when retrofitting

Bought Bluetooth and expected true streaming. The most common misconception. A Bluetooth receiver doesn't make your system network-capable – it makes it a speaker for your mobile phone. That's something completely different.

Bought the device before checking your own service. Always the other way around: first check which device supports your streaming service.

Clarified the connection question only after purchase. Five minutes looking at the back saves a return – on both sides: which input is free on the amplifier and what outputs the desired device actually has.

Stored compressed when ripping. Saves storage space that no one needs to save anymore – and costs quality that won't come back. Nobody wants to re-import their entire collection.

A Hi-Res subscription on a chain that doesn't pass it through. Paying for the high-quality level and then transmitting it via Bluetooth or playing it through a device that doesn't even process it.

Attributed dropouts to the electronics. In nine out of ten cases, it's the Wi-Fi, not the device. A network cable solves more problems than any upgrade.

Untidily wired. Signal cables close to power cables, loose connectors, excessively long cables in a tangled mess behind the rack – the classic causes of humming and interference, which are then attributed to the new device.

Checklist: Six steps to a streaming system

Check the back. Is a line/aux input free? A digital input? If nothing is free: Which device can be moved?
Choose streaming service. Service first, then device. Use trial months.
Clarify network. Can a network cable reach the installation location? If not: How good is the Wi-Fi there?
Consider your own collection. Should CDs or downloads be integrated? Then look for a network library, USB, or internal storage.
Consider the future. Planning more rooms? Then choose the right multi-room system right away.
Connect and listen. Analog or digital – and if both are possible, definitely try both.

Conclusion: What suits whom

You want to know if streaming is for you at all → Connect your phone or laptop via cable to a free input, sign up for a trial month. You don't need more than a cable for that.

The computer is your music source anyway → an external USB converter. Biggest quality jump for the least effort. [LINK → D/A Converter]

It's about the second system in the kitchen or hobby room → a Bluetooth receiver is perfectly sufficient, and there's no shame in that.

You have a good system and want to keep it → a dedicated network streamer. This is the right way for most people. [LINK → Streamer]

You have a large CD collection that you want to integrate → a streamer with a drive and storage, or a NAS as a basis.

Several rooms are to be included → first choose the multi-room system, then the device. [LINK → Blog: Multi-room systems overview]

The amplifier is due for replacement anyway or there are no more free inputs → a streaming amplifier as a complete solution. [LINK → Streaming Amplifier]

We also made a video about it

If you prefer to see this on a real device: We converted a classic system to the streaming age on camera. Feel free to watch.

[EMBED VIDEO]

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make my old system streaming-capable at all – or do I have to buy new?

In almost all cases, yes, and you don't have to replace anything. Streaming is added to the system via an additional device that connects to a free input – like a CD player. Your amplifier doesn't need to do anything itself for this. Age doesn't matter; often, a solid older amplifier is an excellent basis.

What connection do I need for this?

A free RCA input pair is sufficient – usually labeled AUX, Line, Tape, or Tuner. If your amplifier also has an optical or coaxial digital input, that's a second option, because then a D/A converter is already built into the amplifier. Only the phono input is unsuitable; it is specially designed for turntables.

What is the difference between a streamer and a Bluetooth adapter?

A Bluetooth adapter turns your system into a speaker for your mobile phone: the mobile phone plays and transmits the compressed signal. A streamer itself connects to the network and retrieves music directly from the internet – the mobile phone is just a remote control. This is audibly much better and much more pleasant in everyday use, because calls, battery level, and range no longer play a role.

Isn't a cheap Bluetooth receiver enough?

For a second system, the kitchen, or occasional music listening: yes, absolutely. For a good system in the living room, we would advise against it, because Bluetooth always compresses the signal and your mobile phone becomes the player. As an additional function on a proper streamer, Bluetooth is very practical – for example, for sources without their own app integration.

Do I also need a D/A converter?

Usually not. Most streamers come with their own converter and can be connected directly to the amplifier analogously. And many amplifiers have a built-in converter with digital inputs. A separate converter is worthwhile if you specifically want to upgrade, if you already own a good one, if your streamer is a pure transport without an analog output – or if you use the computer as a source, because that's where a USB converter makes the biggest leap.

How do I get my CD collection into the system?

Either on the computer with ripping software, or with a streamer that has a built-in CD drive and hard drive and copies the CDs itself. It is stored internally, on a NAS, or on the computer. Important: store lossless and make a backup copy. Expect about five to ten minutes per CD.

Should I connect analog or digital?

That depends on which converter is better. Analog uses the converter in the streamer, digital the one in the amplifier or an external converter. If your amplifier has no digital input, connect analogously – that's completely unproblematic and the norm for classic devices. If both are possible, try both.

Do I have to lay a network cable or is Wi-Fi enough?

Wi-Fi is sufficient in most households. If a cable is possible, still use it – it's the most reliable connection and prevents dropouts before they occur. Bandwidth is rarely the problem: audio streaming requires significantly less than video.

What if my amplifier has no free input left?

Three ways: First, check if a occupied input is still really needed – often a device that has been idle for years is connected there, and the streamer replaces it anyway. Second, there are streamers with their own inputs to which you can connect an existing source; this effectively gains you a connection. Third, this is the moment to consider an amplifier with built-in streaming.

Is retrofitting worthwhile at all, or better to get a new amplifier with streaming right away?

If you are satisfied with your amplifier: retrofit. You keep the sound, invest specifically, and can take the streamer with you later if you do replace the amplifier. Arguments for a combination device are if the amplifier is due for replacement anyway, no input is free, or you simply want fewer devices in the living room.

Unsure what suits your system? Talk to us

When retrofitting, almost everything depends on two things: what is free on the back of your amplifier and which service you want to use. Both can be clarified in a short conversation – and after that, the selection is usually manageable.

Call us or write to us. The fastest way is to send us a photo of the back of your amplifier and briefly tell us how you want to listen to music. We will tell you honestly which way suits you – and also if the cheap solution is perfectly sufficient.

And if you like: Come by and listen to the difference between the ways yourself. In this topic, that's often more convincing than any description.

[CTA → Consultation] [CTA → Contact form]

Author: Frank Buck