Turntable Buying Guide: Which one is right for me?

Vinyl is back, and for good. But the road there has a few forks in the road that are better known beforehand than afterwards. Because unlike most HiFi components, a turntable is not a device you simply connect and forget – it needs to be chosen properly, set up correctly, and carefully adjusted.

This guide walks through the decision step by step: what components are available and what they do, which drive suits you, what else you need besides the turntable, how much convenience makes sense, what's going on with cartridges – and how much you should realistically budget.

In the end, you will know what type of turntable suits you. And then the good question becomes interesting: Which one do you like best?

Why the basic decisions are more important than the model
Terms sorted: What a turntable consists of
Step 1: Belt or direct drive?
Step 2: What do you need around it?
Step 3: How much convenience do you want?
Step 4: The cartridge – MM or MC?
How much do I have to spend?
Setup and adjustment
Typical mistakes when buying a turntable
Checklist: The right turntable in eight questions
Conclusion: What suits whom
FAQ

Why the basic decisions are more important than the model

A turntable is not a purchase for two years. Good decks last for decades – on the used market, devices are traded that are forty years old and still function flawlessly. So you are buying something that will accompany you for a very long time.

That is exactly why it is worth looking at what can be changed later and what cannot. The cartridge is a wear part and will eventually be replaced anyway – that is normal and even a nice opportunity to realign the sound. With the tonearm, it depends on the concept: In many entry-level and mid-range devices, it is permanently connected to the deck, so here it sets the upper limit of what you can get out of the device later. Decks with a modular design are built differently – there the tonearm is an independent component and can be specifically replaced with a higher-quality one.

That is why the advice right at the beginning: Sort out the basic questions first – drive, equipment, upgradeability, what is around it – and then the model. Aesthetics and price are important, but they only help you within the right category.

Terms sorted: What a turntable consists of

Four components that must work together. Once you have sorted them out, you also understand what the extra cost in higher price classes goes towards.

The deck – plinth, bearing, and platter. Its task sounds simple: to spin the record at a constant speed and not pass on any vibrations to the cartridge. That is exactly where the art lies. Dimensions, material choice, bearing quality, and decoupling determine how quiet the surface is on which the needle works. The plinth is not a decorative element, but contributes significantly to how well the whole thing is isolated against vibrations from outside and inside.

The drive and its control – motor plus the electronics that keep it at speed. Here it is decided how exact and how constant the speed is. In simple devices, the control sits in the housing, in higher-quality ones it moves to a separate power supply outside the plinth – away from the sensitive components, with a noticeable effect. That is exactly why an external motor control is one of the most common upgrades in the vinyl area.

The tonearm – it guides the cartridge over the record. It must be mobile enough to follow every groove, and at the same time stable enough not to vibrate itself. It determines how far you can go up with the cartridge later – and is therefore the component where quality pays off the longest.

The cartridge – the little box at the front of the tonearm. Inside sits a needle holder with a diamond at the tip, which dips into the groove and reads the information. It determines the sound character most directly of all components – and it is the only real wear part. Cartridges

How it all hangs together: The cartridge largely determines how it sounds. The tonearm determines how high-quality the cartridge can be before its potential is no longer realized. And the deck determines how cleanly both can work. That is why it makes little sense to operate a very expensive system on a simple deck – and just as little to slow down an excellent deck with an entry-level system.

By the way, with high-quality manufacturers, this is a conscious modular design: You first choose the deck including the finish, then the matching tonearm, then the cartridge – from the same manufacturer or from a third-party provider. This sounds more complicated than it is, and it has a big advantage: You get exactly the combination that suits your budget and your demands.

Step 1: Belt or direct drive?

The first real fork – and one where there is no wrong answer, but two different philosophies.

Belt drive

The motor is not located under the platter, but offset to the side and drives it via a rubber belt. The belt decouples: motor vibrations only reach the platter dampened.

This is the principle that most classic HiFi manufacturers rely on – from the entry-level device to heavy mass decks in the top segment.

To note: In simpler models, you have to remove the platter and flip the belt to switch between 33 and 45 revolutions. From a certain class, there is an external motor control with which the speed can be switched at the push of a button – significantly more convenient. And the belt is a wear part: After a few years it stretches out and wants to be replaced. This is neither expensive nor complicated, but belongs to the picture.

Direct drive

The motor is located directly under the platter and drives it without an intermediate link. The best-known example of this construction comes from the DJ area, where precise and immediately stable speeds are mandatory – but modern direct drives in the HiFi area are long ago something else than their predecessors.

The strengths: extremely low speed fluctuations, immediate speed stability, speed changes at the push of a button, and practically no wear on the drive itself. The only thing that wears out is the cartridge.

To note: Because the motor sits directly under the platter, it must be mechanically very cleanly executed. Good direct drives solve this excellently – in very cheap devices, it is a weak point.

What does that mean for you?

Honestly: Both principles work excellently at a high level. The speed fluctuations of a good belt drive are admittedly higher than those of a good direct drive when measured, but are generally not audible to the human ear – at least as long as the belt is in good condition.

Practical distinction aid: Who appreciates operating convenience, speed stability, and maintenance-free operation, will fare very well with a direct drive. Who likes the classic HiFi construction and wants to move up to higher classes, will find predominantly belt drives there – from a certain price class, that is simply the more common construction.

Our selection: Turntables

Step 2: What do you need around it?

This is the point that is most often overlooked with the first turntable – and that triggers the most follow-up questions in our store.

The phono preamp: not optional

A turntable delivers an extremely quiet signal with a special equalization. Both must be processed before a normal amplifier can do anything with it. Without a phono preamp, you either hear nothing or a thin, far too quiet signal.

You have three ways:

Phono input on the amplifier. Many integrated amplifiers have one – usually for MM systems. If yours has one: best case, you don't need anything else.
Built-in preamp in the turntable. Increasingly common, especially in the entry-level and ambitious entry-level area. The turntable then goes to any normal line or aux input. Good devices allow the preamp to be switched off – important if you want to switch to an external solution later.
External phono preamp. The sonically usually best solution, because here the entire development and the complete power supply are optimized for this one task. And the only option if you want to operate an MC system and your amplifier only supports MM.

In the assortment: Phono Preamplifiers

Amplifier and speakers

If you already have a system, check two things: Is there a phono input, and if so – MM or also MC? If not, a free line or aux input plus one of the other two solutions above is the way.

If you are starting from scratch, all paths are open to you. A very elegant option for everyone who wants as little effort as possible: a turntable with a built-in phono preamp connected to a pair of active speakers. If the speakers can also stream and offer HDMI, you have a complete system including TV sound – from two components.

Active Speakers · Amplifier Buying Guide: Which type suits me?

The phono cable

A detail with practical relevance. Some turntables are wired through from the cartridge to the RCA plugs – there the question does not arise, and the quality is usually decent. Others have a pluggable connection field on the back. There you can later replace the included cable with a higher-quality one if you want to push the device further. Not a must, but a nice upgrade option. Analog Cables

The surface

No accessory in the narrow sense, but more important than most think: A turntable needs a straight, stable, and vibration-free place to stand. It reads grooves in the micrometer range – everything that comes in from outside as vibration potentially ends up in the signal.

It gets critical with springy wall shelves, wobbly sideboards, or wooden floors that vibrate with every step. A heavy, torsion-rigid rack or a solidly attached wall console solves this reliably.

Step 3: How much convenience do you want?

Here comes a point that surprises especially returnees.

Who listened to records in the seventies or eighties knows fully automatic devices: press the button, the tonearm goes onto the record itself, plays it, lifts up at the end, and goes back. You put a record on and went shopping.

That is the exception today. The reason is less technical than cultural: listening to records today is rarely background music, but something you do consciously. You put it on, sit down, listen. Automatic mechanisms bring additional components into the vicinity of the tonearm – and where effort is made today, it is preferably spent on the deck, bearing, and tonearm.

The convenience levels that you will encounter in practice:

Manual. You set the tonearm down and lift it up again at the end. The normal case with the vast majority of HiFi turntables.
End lift. A sensible middle ground that some devices offer: The tonearm lifts up automatically in the lead-out groove. It does not go back, but the annoying scratching at the end is avoided – and you do not have to sit next to it.
Fully automatic. Rare. Who absolutely needs it should look specifically for it – talk to us, then we will look together what is currently available.

Other convenience features you can look out for

Electronic speed switching. Switching between 33 and 45 at the push of a button instead of flipping the belt. Especially relevant then if you listen to many singles or 45-rpm pressings.

78 revolutions. For shellac records. Only a few devices offer this, and most never need it – but who owns a shellac collection must look specifically for it.

Tonearm height adjustment. Sounds technical, but is very practical: If you later install a different cartridge that has a different construction height, the tonearm must run parallel to the record again. With height adjustment, this is done continuously, without it you work with spacing rings. A clear sign that a device was built for upgradeability.

Interchangeable headshell. The cartridge sits on a small removable holder. This makes the system change significantly more pleasant – you can mount the cartridge at the desk in peace, instead of tinkering with the device. And you can have several systems prepared and switch in seconds.

Bluetooth. Recently also found in turntables. Practical if your active speakers are further away and no cable can be laid – or if you want to listen through headphones without disturbing anyone. Current Bluetooth variants transmit quite decent quality. For the fixed system, cable remains the first choice anyway.

The cover. Sounds trivial, is relevant in everyday life. It protects against dust and accidental touches. Make sure it stays in every position – if your turntable stands in a shelf with limited height, that is a real advantage. And measure beforehand: Some devices are a few centimeters more compact than others, and exactly those sometimes decide whether it fits into the existing furniture.

Step 4: The cartridge – MM or MC?

The cartridge is the component that shapes the sound character most directly – and the only one that wears out over time.

MM – Moving Magnet

The widespread standard. A small magnet on the needle holder moves in fixed coils. Advantages: higher output voltage, so uncomplicated to operate on practically any phono input. And the most important practical point – in most MM systems, only the needle insert can be replaced when the diamond is worn out. This is significantly cheaper than a complete new system and is done without tools.

Many manufacturers offer differently high-quality needle inserts for the same system base. You can therefore upgrade sonically without having to readjust anything – a very elegant upgrade possibility.

MC – Moving Coil

Opposite principle: The coils move, the magnet stands fixed. The moving mass is smaller, which generally leads to finer resolution and better detail reproduction. That is why most high-quality systems are MC.

Two consequences: The output voltage is significantly lower, so you need a phono preamp that explicitly supports MC. And in most MC systems, the needle cannot be replaced individually – if the diamond is worn out or the needle holder is damaged, the system goes to the manufacturer or is replaced.

How much effort such a system takes to create, Clearaudio showed us at the Fidelity Days – who wants to see once what kind of craftsmanship is in that little box, is in the right place here:

What that means for you

For the entry, a good MM system is the reasonable choice: uncomplicated to connect, cheap in maintenance, absolutely serious to take sonically. Many turntables already come with one that does its job well.

The switch to MC is one of the most rewarding steps if you want to go deeper – but it needs to be prepared: matching preamp, a tonearm that can also push the system, and the willingness to adjust more carefully. Exactly that is why it is worth paying attention to a good tonearm at the first purchase. It is the component that keeps this path open for you later.

On lifespan: A diamond wears out with the operating hours and grinds down one-sidedly – eventually it no longer sounds like at the beginning, and in the worst case, the record suffers. Exactly when the replacement is due depends on usage, cut shape, and record cleanliness. If you are unsure, look at our selection or bring the turntable by: Cartridges

How much do I have to spend?

Honest answer upfront: There are turntables for 100 or 200 euros. We do not carry them, and for a simple reason – we do not want to listen to a record with them ourselves. Not out of snobbery, but because in such devices, exactly the points that decide the sound are saved, and because in the unfavorable case they damage your records.

What you should realistically budget:

The entry-level starts at around 300 euros. For that, you get a solid turntable with a usable tonearm and usually a pre-mounted cartridge – a device that really makes listening to records fun.

The ambitious entry-level is in the range of around 1,000 to 1,300 euros. Something important happens here: The tonearms of this class are so good that you won't reach their limits even with high-quality systems. In addition, they often feature tonearm height adjustment, electronic speed selection, and a decent cartridge system already installed. This is the class where most of our customers end up – and for good reason: Such a device will accompany you for decades and grow with your demands.

Beyond that are the mid-range and high-end, where mass-produced turntables, elaborate bearings, high-quality tonearms, and the aforementioned modular principle begin. Here you assemble your own device from a turntable, tonearm, and system.

The scale is open at the top. In the high-end range, there are turntables that cost significantly six figures. This is not showing off, but simply the market – and the reason why we prefer to advise personally on this topic rather than hand you a price list.

The most important budget tip: Plan the upgrade level you want in a few years. A turntable with a good tonearm and switchable phono preamp costs a little more today – and saves you the complete repurchase later, if the hobby becomes bigger than planned. And a hobby rarely gets smaller.

Setup and Adjustment

Two points that cost no cents and yet decide a considerable part of the result.

The Placement

A turntable reads grooves in the micrometer range. Everything that comes in from the outside as vibration potentially ends up in the signal. Therefore: a stable, as heavy as possible base, far enough away from the speakers so that the sound does not directly feedback. On vibrating floors or wobbly furniture, it becomes difficult – here a proper rack or wall console helps considerably.

And the turntable must stand level. You check this with a spirit level on the platter. Many devices have height-adjustable feet with which this can be balanced.

The Adjustment

A turntable rarely comes out of the box fully adjusted – and even if a system is pre-mounted, tracking force and anti-skating need your attention. Both not only influence the sound, but also how gently your system handles the records.

This is not rocket science, but it must be done carefully. How it goes step by step, we show here: Setting up a turntable: tracking force, anti-skating, alignment

Honestly: In our experience, a large part of the turntables in German living rooms do not run at the level they actually can – simply because the adjustment was never done or checked. That is a shame, because a lot of sound is left on the table, for which has already been paid.

Therefore, two offers from us:

If you buy from us, we set up the turntable completely at your request before you take it with you. And if you are unsure or feel that something is wrong: Bring it by, we will look at it. Unfortunately, this can hardly be judged from afar – but in the store or on site, it is quickly done.

If you want to do it yourself, you need the right tools: a spirit level, a setup template, a tonearm balance, and cleaning accessories. We have put together ready bundles for this – from the compact starter set for the entry level to a set for advanced users and the pro bundle for everyone who works with high-quality systems and wants to measure accordingly precisely. Adjustment accessories

Typical mistakes when buying a turntable

Forgetting the phono preamp. The most common case ever. The turntable arrives, is plugged into the Aux input – and almost nothing comes out. Clarify beforehand: Does the amplifier have a phono input? Is there a preamp in the turntable? If both are no, an external solution must be included in the budget.

MC system on an MM input. Related case. The signal is then far too quiet, and you look for the error in the wrong places.

Bought too cheap. Below a certain threshold, you get devices that neither bring joy nor spare the record collection. Better save a little longer.

Only looked at the cartridge. A high-quality system on a simple tonearm does not deliver what it costs – the potential simply does not come through.

Transported the turntable incorrectly. Important and little known: When moving or transporting, the platter and counterweight must always be removed. Both sit on sensitive bearings that can jump out during vibration. That is why they are also stored separately in the box.

Did not check the dimensions. Turntables are larger than you think, and the cover needs space above. Measure beforehand – also the height of the shelf compartment.

Placed on a wobbly base. Wall shelves that spring, or furniture that vibrates with every step, nullify any sound quality.

Never readjusted. The tracking force changes slightly over time. Re-measuring once a year takes five minutes.

Did not clean the records. Dust in the groove is the enemy of sound and needle alike. A carbon brush before every playback is minimal effort with a big effect. Record care and accessories

Checklist: In eight questions to the right turntable

Do I have a phono input? On the amplifier, in the turntable – or do I need an external preamp? MM or MC?
What should it be connected to? Existing system, active speakers, or am I building completely new?
Belt or direct drive? Both good – a question of comfort, maintenance, and personal preference.
How much comfort do I need? Auto shut-off, speed switching by button press, Bluetooth?
Should it grow with me? Then pay attention to a good tonearm, tonearm height adjustment, and a switchable preamp.
Where should it stand? Check dimensions, check the height of the shelf compartment, check the stability of the base.
Who sets it up? Yourself with the right tools – or should it arrive fully adjusted?
Do I like it? A turntable stands visibly in the room and stays for decades. Aesthetics can be a criterion.

Conclusion: What fits for whom

You just want to dip your toes in and don't have a system yet. → An entry-level device with a built-in phono preamp, combined with active speakers. Compact, uncomplicated, later expandable at any time.

You have a system and want to add vinyl. → First check if your amplifier has a phono input. Then it's only about the turntable, tonearm, and system.

You are getting back into it, have a record collection, and want to do it right this time. → The ambitious entry level around 1,000 euros is the most interesting class for you. Good tonearms, real upgradeability, a device for the next decades.

Comfort is important to you and technology should not get in the way. → Direct drive with electronic speed selection, auto shut-off, and built-in preamp. Fewer steps, less wear.

You want to hear what is in your records. → High-end class, modular principle: turntable, tonearm, and cartridge specifically matched to each other, plus an external phono preamp. Here advice is most worth it.

You have little space or a fixed shelf compartment. → Measure beforehand and pay attention to the cover. There are devices that are a few centimeters more compact – and exactly those sometimes make the difference.

A tour through our vinyl exhibition

If you prefer the topic visually: We went once through our complete turntable exhibition – from the entry level to the high-end turntables – and also show cartridges, phono preamps, and record cleaning machines. Feel free to look in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need a phono preamp?

Yes. The question is only where it sits: in the amplifier, in the turntable, or as a separate device. Without it, the signal is far too quiet and incorrectly equalized.

Belt or direct drive – which is better?

Neither one fundamentally. Direct drives have advantages in speed stability, operating comfort, and maintenance-free operation. Belt drives decouple the motor mechanically and dominate the higher price classes. Both principles work excellently at a high level.

How much does a good entry-level turntable cost?

It becomes sensible from around 300 euros. Who means it seriously and is looking for a device that grows with them over decades, is very well off in the range around 1,000 euros – there above all the tonearms are significantly better.

How long does a needle last?

That depends on the usage, the cut shape, and how clean your records are. With MM systems, you usually only change the needle insert, which is easy and comparatively cheap. With MC systems, usually the whole system is affected. If you are unsure if your needle is still good: Bring the turntable by, we will look at it.

Can I connect my turntable to a soundbar?

If the soundbar has an analog input and the turntable has a built-in phono preamp, it works. It is not the sonically ideal way, but a pragmatic one – and significantly better than not listening to a record at all.

Does vinyl really sound better than streaming?

"Better" is the wrong category. Vinyl sounds different, and many perceive this character as more pleasant and livelier. In addition, there is something that has nothing to do with measurement values: You consciously put it on, turn the record over, listen to an album as a whole. That changes how you listen to music. The best thing is anyway to have both.

Do I have to wash my records?

For everyday use, a carbon brush before every playback is enough. Who buys a lot of used records or maintains a large collection gets surprisingly much out of a record cleaning machine – especially with records that were stored unmaintained for decades. We have various systems at our place that you can look at.

Can I still use an old turntable from the attic?

Often yes, and sometimes it is very worth it. To check are belts (if present), bearings, and above all the condition of the needle – an old, worn needle damages your records. Feel free to bring it by, then we will look together if a refurbishment is worth it.

Are you not sure? Then talk to us

This advice does not replace a conversation – it should only bring you as far as you can ask the right questions. If you are still wavering after that, which class suits you or if your existing amplifier plays along: Call us or write to us.

And if you like, come by and listen to your favorites in peace. A note on this: For a proper turntable demonstration, we take our time and also build up devices on request that are not currently in the exhibition. Therefore, please get in touch one or two days beforehand, instead of coming by spontaneously.

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Directly into the range: Turntables · Cartridges · Phono preamps · Record care · Adjustment accessories

Author: Fidelity